cd lampizator

hi, 
just curious whether does anybody know who can do the cd lampizator here in the klang valley, fyi, cd player is the naim cd 3

thanks all

anybodu can do or attemp to do the lampizator....anybody?...    

i dont dare to try with naim cd3, would try with a cheaper cd first to get the feel@idea to anticipate any problems. 
the concept of lampizator is easy. let the current from dac flow tru a resistor to produce voltage and the tube will amplify. it can be done this way as the tube has infinite resistance. i am thinking to try it to either my cs4328 or cs4329 diy dac.

thank you on your input sir.. i wish you success on your project...and after that please let me know the outcome as i intend to hand ober the naim cdp to you...my no is 019 2265467- syamsul..i really wish i had some techical knowledge so i can ha a go at it myself..but unfortunately i have not.

while at it please try visit " Lukas Fikus" webpage..they provide some information regarding lampizator..

thanks

this is my tda1541a that i will lampizied soon.



there are 2 pin, left right aol and aor pin 25 and 6 from your tda 1541 for minimal lampizied. fickus omit the saa and make it non os dac

the i/v converter as below

that looks temting....please update us on the results...
hope to be able to send my cd3 to your soon sir 

sorry for not understanding a word on the tecnical part...im so bad at this its almost embarassing...its like reading something in a foreign language...

Ok mr wan syam. i hope i can help u a bit to understand. i am not an expert because my expertise is in satellite system but audio is my hobby. 

let me give u a simple idea what cd player and dac consist of.
your cd is formatted through a small holes and reflector. when u burn the cd, actually it is burning a fusable layer. if it is burnt no light will be reflected. this will produced ones and zeros for reflected and unreflected light. the audio cd is formatted in various form either compressed(mp3 etc) or un-compressed(*.wav, etc). the analog audio signals when converted to digital will be coded (through encoder) so that it can be stored accordingly, corrected if there is an error occur, buffered for anti-shake and can be changed back to analog. so, during the playback, the lens will focus onto the reflective layer of your cd and the data is read from it and pass it to the controller (SERVO CONTROLLER - that will also controlling the head of your cd lens) and send it to digital receiver. The old receiver is cs8412, cs8414 etc or yamaha etc. The receiver is a data decoder that will decode the 101010 from the controller and make it into two streams left and right and perform error correction. the dsp or digital signal processor will perform data interpolation as if the analog analog signal is sample 4 times faster. some dsp if performing bit stuffing just adding zeros to perform the same thing as data interpolation. this is what usually known as oversampling. some dsp is converting 16 bits and upsaple it to 20bits or even 24 bits. I used to upsample it to 20 bit using analog devices shark dsp when the 20 bits dsp was extremely expensive to copy wadia. that was many years ago. 
once it is digitally filtered to limit the frequency up to 22 kHz, the data is passed to the dac (digital to analog converter). the output for tda1451 is in  a form of current and the two 8-pins ic will convert the current to voltage and the other 4-8 pins ics will amplify it and filter the analog signal to 20kHz. 

you might have heard jitter. the jitter is the phenomenon where the phase of the data is not fix means that the pulse is not fix. the pulse is vibrating. this will cause the digital receiver to introduce delay to track the beginning of the pulse. the varying small delay will produce edgy sound and some time bright and lost of focus (from the group delay introduced). reclocking is one way to reduce jitter or use better clock not the internally generated reference clock to masked the input. that is why some people will spend tons of money to kill the jitter and use expensive digital cable to reduce the jitter. some approach is to use a very good capacitor bypass to suppress digital noise to reduce jitter without reclock. that is what fickus is trying to do

thank you sir....i envy your technical understanding of the eletronics

mr mierock...any progress on your lampazitor project sir?

Hi! This is a Naim CD3 Lampizator I modded for a friend few years ago, the parts and transformers are bought from Lampizator website, I can tell you that this is a worthwhile upgrade and highly recommended if you own any TDA1541A CD player.














Comparing modded CD3 with original CD3.

nick 696..all i can say is wow....brilliant job sir...im having mine done at the moment...will update as soon as its ready

sorry..was having connection problems.hence the multiple entry.
however..this is the nos mod and lampizator to my cdp by benjamin tan.
those interested can reach him by 012 6268805. 
how was the improvements you may ask..welll..it takes the system to a whole new level...donno much about hifi jargons...but they are worth doing.

Hi! wsyam,

We would like to see some photo of your lampizator stage. thanks.

Lampizator doesnt sell DIY parts anymore through his website

hi...with regards to the parts and the lampizator stage...can contact Benjamin Tan on 012 6268805, he's in singapore now(can whatsapp), but he'll be able to give details. can tell him i(syamsul) gave his no. he did mine on a modular mode, which i find convenient, but then again its up to the owner. he did mine in just a few day with excellent results.